Whispers of oak and menthol can be found on the plum liqueur, spice, wild flower and earth-scented nose. There is outstanding size, weight, punch and concentration to the broad-shouldered and imposingly muscular flavors that possess superb underlying tension that is particularly prominent on the balanced, complex and hugely long finish. This is most impressive but very clearly built-to-age.

Good full, bright red; the darkest of these 2015s. Inviting aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, chocolate and five-spice powder. Juicy and crunchy in the context of the vintage; dense and thick but not heavy, with its penetrating, fruit-driven flavors framed by surprising harmonious acidity and saline minerality. This very ripe and rather stylish Clos de la Roche finishes with substantial refined tannins and excellent length and lift. Like several other of these 2015s, this seems fresher in the bottle than it was from barrel in late 2016. Virgile Lignier vinified most of his 2015 crus with 70% or 80% whole clusters and as his stems were fully ripe owing to his late harvesting, they add an essential element of energy without introducing greenness into the wines. (ST)

Cask sample. The nose is underwhelming at first – subtle, reclusive. There's a faint violet aroma and the requisite red fruit but not much else besides. Tight palate, but doesn't seem to have the depth and profundity expected from grand cru. Perhaps it just needs bottle age and optimism 17+/20 points (RH)