Cooling, mossy chalkiness plays on this wine’s nose, despite the heat of 2018. The palate then displays juicy roundness in the form of ripe, yellow pear pervading chalky depth. Rich lemon-peel notes create contour and add mouthwatering brightness to this concentrated, understated wine that comes with subdued but distinct power. (AK)

The Domaine Fèvre 2018 Bougros is an outstanding wine in the making. It offers up a sophisticated aromatic constellation of apple, pear, Kimmeridgian chalkiness, tangerine, white flowers and just a hint of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and even more mineral than the nose suggests, with a rock solid core, great cut and grip and a very long, complete and promising finish. Superb juice.

The 2018 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru is far more forthcoming than the Valmur, presenting gorgeous orange, peach, tinned apricot and light pineapple scents that are very seductive. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. This immediately puts the Valmur in its place with a penetrating, saline finish that leaves you wanting another sip. Superb. (NM)