Deep aromas and flavors of black- and redcurrant, smoked meat and sexy oak spices; faintly liqueur-like. Very rich and ripe, but with good verve for its thickness. Finishes long and smooth, with suave, fine-grained tannins. "In 2009, the vintage is more important than the cru," noted Olivier Bernstein, who was not sure that these wines would ever really shut down in bottle. "Put it like this: If I'm in the kitchen cooking, I would normally say 'I'm in the mood for a Bonnes-Mares, or a Mazi,' but with this vintage I'd be more likely to say 'I'm in the mood for a 2009.'" (ST)