This shows lovely depth on the nose with dark licorice, dried fruit, red meat, blood oranges and Indian spices. Full-bodied and intense, but with real linearity carved out by the bright acidity and firm, grainy tannin backbone, which help to delineate the red-fruited core and lead to a long finish.

One of three single-vineyard expressions from Val di Suga, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Granchio opens to a nicely saturated color and beautifully intense aromas. Fruit is sourced from a site located in the southeast quadrant of Montalcino where steep diurnal shifts help to sharpen and maximize those pretty fruit aromas. Wild cherry and blackberry are followed by aniseed, camphor ash and balsam herb. This elegant wine delivers an impressive load of Sangiovese typicity. This wine was aged in French barrique for 24 months, and the oak is expertly integrated. (ML)

One of three single ‘cru’ bottlings, Poggio al Granchio reaches 450m overlooking Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Small berries lend a deeply coloured wine and the 2013 is still pitch-purple. Exotic sweet spice, damp soil and grilled rosemary suffuse dark blackcurrant fruit. Dry, dusty tannins are vigorous and command the robust palate. Though not without vibrancy, this is still a bit angular. I would give it another year before opening or drink with grilled steak to tame some of its force. (MM)