I have become more and more a fan of the Roncières bottlings from Domaine Chevillon with the passing years and regret I did not buy more of this cuvée for my own cellar back in the days when I had very good access to the estate’s wines. Back then, I used to principally focus on the “big three” of Cailles, Vaucrains and les St. Georges for my long-term cellaring purchases, and the Chaignots to drink on the younger side, and so missed the opportunity to have a nice supply of mature Roncières in the cellar. But, this premier cru chez Chevillon ages brilliantly and the 2019 is going to be a gorgeous wine in due course. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex blend of red and black cherries, gamebird, nutskin, chocolate, incipient notes of black truffle, a lovely base of soil, vanillin oak and a lovely topnote of roses. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and tangy in personality, with a superb core of fruit, lovely soil signature and grip, ripe tannins and a long, well-balanced and classy finish. (Drink between 2030-2080)

Polished, exuding black currant, blackberry, earth and stone flavors. Well-built and turns more sinewy on the back end. Overall, this feels silky and firms up nicely on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2043.

Bursting with aromas of blackberries, mulberries, dark chocolate and rich soil tones, the 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Roncières is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, built around velvety tannins and succulent acids. It will be well worth seeking out. Bertrand Chevillon reported yields some 50% below average in 2019 but was justly delighted with the quality of the wines. This is another powerful, structured vintage at this address, but the wines are more vibrant than the fine 2018s and more structurally refined, too. As I've written before, this is one of my favorite addresses in all of Burgundy. Old vines, cultivated soils, moderate yields and long fermentations with entirely destemmed grapes are the order of the day at this address, with the Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes seeing some 20% new oak and the premiers crus 30%. Nuits' Tonnellerie Sirugue is the dominant supplier of barrels. (WK)