The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows remarkable depth and concentration. It is a round, supple wine layered with wild cherries, menthol, spices and violets. The tannins are imposing but there is more than enough fruit to balance the wine’s structural components. The 2005 doesn’t quite reach the peak of the 2004, but it isn’t too far off the mark. (AG)