The 2019 vintage of Klaus-Peter Keller’s von der Fels Riesling Trocken is truly stunning this year, coming in at 12.5 percent octane and just exuding its limestone minerality on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is precise, complex and vibrant, soaring from the glass in a mix of tart orange, pink grapefruit, kaleidoscopic chalky minerality, lemongrass, citrus peel, a touch of wild yeasts and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and racy, with a superb core of fruit, outstanding mineral drive and grip, buried, racy acids and absolutely perfect balance on the long and youthfully complex finish. As more and more old vines get consigned to the von der Fels bottling (the average here is now thirty years of age, well up from what it was a decade ago), this does not have quite the same power, but it is now approaching the quality of the Grosses Gewächs bottlings from Weingut Keller in those early years when I first started visiting here in 2005 and 2006. This is a stunning value in the 2019 vintage!