The NV Champagne Sous Bois Brut pours a medium yellow to deeper straw hue, and the nose is warming and more generous with notes of toast, red fruit of ripe raspberry, spice, and espresso. The palate is rounded, with rich texture though dry, offering notes of orange peel and currant. It has a silky texture and a fairly long finish, with ripe concentration. (AF)

Attractive and complex nose of salted almonds, apricots, figs, raspberries and white chocolate. Tangy green apples, too. Fine bubbles here, with vibrant acidity and sleek, integrated layers. Dry and rich yet all in balance. Equal parts chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier, with about 30% reserve wines. Aged six years on lees.

Rich, radiant and resonant, the Brut NV Sous Bois is wonderfully expressive. Dried orchard fruit, spice and chamomile build nicely with aeration. This release is based on 2015 with 40% reserve wines, a blend that works so well. Delicate floral and dried herb notes linger. (AG)