Donnhoff’s 2006 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese smells beautifully of iris, cherry, lime, and honey. Juicy melon and cherry fruit are underlain by subtle salinity on a satin-textured palate, and this finishes with terrific refreshment, refinement, and lift – wafting, lilting as though its finish were yet another long inhalation. It’s true, I’m crazy for what Donnhoff does with this site, but the reason the wine’s quality is so often underestimated by other critical observers of the wine scene is because it is inherently delicate and doesn’t demand that you pay attention. Those who fail to attend will leave more for the rest of us. (DS)