More tightly wound and even backwards, the 2011 Roussanne Estate needs another year in bottle to round into form. Barrel-fermented and aged in 25% new French oak, its medium gold color is followed by notions of orange blossom, buttered toast and grilled golden fruits on the nose. A big, rich wine that has an unctuous texture, juicy acidity and beautiful length, it will have a solid 5-7 year drink window, if not longer. (JD)