Deeper, darker and richer than the surrounding vintages, the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico pulls you close with a heady display of crushed chocolate-covered black cherries, cinnamon sugar, molasses and a grounding hint of flowery undergrowth. It’s creamy and weighty in feel, yet it never tires the senses, as a contrasting wave of citrus-tinged tart red and black fruits comes together with savory herbal tones and a hint of balsamic spice. There are layers of aroma and flavor to explore here, as the 2009 continues to open in the glass. Echoes of pomegranate, blackberry and violets linger through the long and lightly structured finale. While I’m sure the 2009 will hold up over medium-term cellaring, there’s a certain air of early maturity here that makes it quite easy to enjoy already. (EG)