2017 DRC Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru
97DC
97VN
95-97JM
96BH
96RP
96WS
$3,999.99
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97
Decanter
Reviewed May 2022The La Tâche marks a departure from the wines in this tasting. It is noticeably darker, a bit less forward aromatically and much richer. There is more red and black fruit density, and more power and tannic grip on the palate, although according to the domaine, the winemaking was the same, with the fermenting juice punched down with the same frequency. Bertrand de Villaine points out that La Tâche goes from the bottom of the grand cru band to the top and feels that this delivers a 'transparency that is the expression of the terroir and very close to minerality'. (CC)
Professional Reviews
97
Vinous
The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 6 and 7 at 34hl/ha and bottled between March 25 and April 24. As Aubert de Villaine had noted earlier, this is a more introverted La Tâche that bided its time in the glass. The fruit is slightly darker than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, with the addition of a little blueberry and violet and background scents of moorland, though they needed 10–15 minutes in the glass before they revealed themselves. The medium-bodied palate delivers lithe tannins matched with a very fine line of acidity. This displays more body and grip than the Richebourg or Romanée-Saint-Vivant, and wondrous piquancy on the loamy finish. What it does not possess, unlike the previous two vintages, is a never-ending aftertaste. This La Tâche does its job but prefers not to hang around. (NM)
95-
97
Jasper Morris
Just a little more depth of purple in the centre. The nose has an impressive weight without much detail. Some fresh raspberry fruit starts to emerge, the weight is certainly there but the wine is not quite dancing today, not quite the precision that we expect and which will doubtless emerge with longer elevage. Doubtless the more classic rose petal notes will emerge. The finish is firmer than for the preceding wines, but I find that typical of La Tâche. On today’s showing I have scored the wine conservatively.
96
Burghound
Other than perhaps a great Musigny, La Tâche is the most aromatically compelling wine in Burgundy with its perfumed fireworks in a glass with a nose that is ultra-spicy, exuberantly fresh and impressively broad-ranging array of rose petal, exotic and herbal tea, lavender, plum, violet, sandalwood, soy and a whiff of hoisin. There is a beguiling sense of underlying tension to the supple and almost easy-going mid-palate of the deceptively forward medium-bodied flavors that progressively tighten up on the dusty, exceptionally stony and saline if ever-so-mildly warm finish that flashes excellent depth and superb persistence as well as plenty of youthful austerity. This is a La Tâche of contrasts as the mid-palate suggests early accessibility yet the firm core of tannins makes clear that the 2017 LT will require extended keeping if you wish to experience it at its peak.
Notes
96 points, Antonio Galloni for Vinous: "The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows all of those elements to emerge fully, especially the aromatics that are such a La Tâche signature. Creamy, ample and wonderfully expressive, 2017 is superb today. I would cellar the 2017 for at least a few years, even if it is incredibly alluring right now." (3/2020)
Details
| Origin | Burgundy, France |
|---|---|
| Type/Varietal | Pinot Noir |
| SKU | 1478680 |