Pegau's distinctive violet and garrigue aromas are on full display in the 2017 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, backed by plummy fruit and velvety tannins. It's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich, with ample length and hints of mocha and licorice on the finish. Not as sexy out of the gate as some vintages, I'd give it another year or two in the cellar, then drink it over the next decade or so. The bottled cuvées available to taste this summer included three white wines and only a single red. That's OK by this taster, as I think Laurence Feraud is producing some of the most compelling white wines in Châteauneuf du Pape. The 2019 Cuvée Réservée (white) may be her best one yet. (JC)

This is dark and winey, with a serious core of steeped fig, black currant and blackberry fruit that shows broad shoulders. A second wave of warm paving stone, bay leaf and tar strides in on the finish, resulting in a powerful swath of fruit and earth in the end. A bit of patience is needed here. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2023 through 2037.

Deep shimmering ruby. A highly perfumed nose displays scents of ripe red and dark berries, candied lavender, licorice, smoked meat and white pepper, and a building mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and deeply concentrated yet lively as well, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that spread out and become livelier with aeration. Closes youthfully chewy, sweet and extremely long, with slow-building tannins adding shape and solid grip. There's no Cuvée Da Capo in 2017, incidentally. (JR)