There is a whisper of wood sitting atop the very cool, airy and restrained aromas of plum liqueur, cherry, spice, and a variety of floral scents. Consistent with the nose the middle weight and even more intensely mineral-driven flavors are restrained and chiseled while displaying first-rate persistence on the bitter chocolate-inflected finish. This needs to develop more depth but if it does this could well be outstanding in time.

There are two and a half barrels of the 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses (Domaine Louis Jadot), a wine that saw some whole-cluster fermentation this year. Exhibiting aromas of raspberries, orange rind, dried flowers and creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with fine but youthfully firm tannins and a long, precise finish. It was quite marked by its wood when I tasted it, but I suspect that will have settled down by the time it's bottled. (WK)