A truly traditional Barolo. Grapes from Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Ruè and Rocche dell'Annunziata are co-fermented then aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 30 months. In 2012 the Ruè vineyard was hit by hail, reducing production (usually 15,000-20,000 bottles) by 20%. Exquisite aromas of anise, precise strawberry, raspberry and rose reveal themselves one by one. In the mouth, delicate flavours are framed by assertive tannins, with an exotic mix of spice lingering on the finish. (MM)

We start with the 2012 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello, which is everything I expect. Perfumed, gracious and utterly sublime, the 2012 is all nuance. It is a real treat to taste and drink after two weeks of tasting embryonic six-month-old Bordeaux. It is also absolutely gorgeous with some of the lighter first courses on the menu. I can see the bewildered faces of my guests, all them native or adopted Bordeaux locals. 'How can a wine be so light and yet deliver so much depth and persistence?' That, in a nutshell is what Nebbiolo is all about. (AG)

Focused and fragrant, this beautiful expression of the vintage opens with scents of violet, rose, perfumed berry and a hint of cake spice. The silky, linear palate doles out juicy red cherry, chopped aromatic herb, cinnamon and star anise alongside polished tannins and fresh acidity. Balanced and approachable, it will provide sheer drinking pleasure over the next several years or more. (KO)