Lime blossom, hazelnut and white peach flavors give this white immediate appeal. The vibrant structure keeps this focused and long. Picks up a mineral accent on the finish. Drink now through 2026.

A decidedly smoky nose reflects notes of green fruit and citrus where the latter is picked up by the rich, powerful and impressively voluminous flavors that deliver fine length on the robust and lingering finish. This moderately dry effort isn't exactly rustic but it flirts with it.

The 2017 Meursault Le Porusot 1er Cru shows a lot of new oak on the nose, occluding terroir expression and rendering it a little generic. Likewise, the palate is dominated by smoky new oak, revealing touches of the old "smoky bacon." This is a Meursault that articulates winemaking more than terroir or grape variety. Still, it does improve, with a touch of lime cordial coming through, and I suspect that the new oak will assimilate with bottle age. Let’s see where this goes. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.(NM)