5 Sentidos K&L Exclusive Espadin "Batch ESALB01-19" (Alberto Martinez) Santa Catarina Albarradas Uncertified Oaxacan Mezcal (750ml)

Staff Reviews

KM

Keith Mabry

Keith Mabry

When I think of Mezcal, I often drift into thoughts of American barbecue. In some regions of the US, the smokier the better. But I want to taste the meat, and that's exactly what brings me to one of the most impressive Mezcals I have tasted this year. The use of oak and acacia in the smoking process gives a subtle more refined character. This smoking and all the hand processing really allows the aromas and the flavors of the Espadin to shine through. Citrus, spice and that peppery vegetal tone accentuate the smoky palate. Don't think of this as a less smoky alternative though, think of it as a more appropriately smoked version. I am definitely putting this on the shelf of my home bar.

WB

Will Blakely

Will Blakely

This exemplary mezcal shows how time, dedication and impeccable technique can acheive some of the highest quality spirit imagineable, certified or not. Careful cultivation and handling of this Espadin yields something altogether different from the overcooked and ruddy tastes of high-volume cocktail-only mezcal. The flavors are immaculate and fresh, snapping into focus from the moment the liquid leaves the bottle. Piquant lime zest and mellow roasted roots up front transition seamlessly into chamomille, fresh herbs and green agave. On the back end, a meaty char and the requisite savory smoke give the feeling of serious weight, but all of it is held in perfect balance by a lingering mineral character that leaves the finish just as dry and crisp as the start. Honestly, it's dangerous how easily this goes down; pace yourself, but don't be surprised if you have to buy several bottles before this batch is gone.

Notes

5 Sentidos started as the house spirit of the acclaimed restaurant in Oaxaca city "El Destilado" and has become a platform to uplift numerous traditional producers who otherwise wouldn't be able to sell their products on the international stage. There's a stigma in Mexico of exporting uncertified agave spirits, driven by the idea that mezcal's denomination of origin is synonymous with quality. In fact, the system shuts out many traditional producers and allows countless industrial practices that should be considered inferior. That's why many of the greatest mezcals are being bottled without certification. This exceptional nano-batch mezcal is one of the finest we've ever tasted from any producer. Alberto Martinez's palenque, "La Escondida" is located above 6500 feet in the town of Santa Catarina Albarradas. Here it is the Sierra Negra that is most often cultivated. The ubiquitous Espadin grows extremely slowly at these high altitudes and Alberto only manages to cultivate enough from his fields (near 7000 feet) to produce a batch of Espadin every 2-3 years. This batch consisted of only 31 pinas roasted over oak and acacia leaves. The agave is mashed with wooden mallet and mixed for fermentation in stone with Tepehuaje bark, a nitrogen rich fermentation aid crucial to kick starting the process in the nearly freezing temperatures. The mash is then double distilled on small clay pots. The resulting 120-liter batch is nearly unprecedented in its deliciousness. Truly outstanding.