From NETA: Ranulfo has been distilling agave spirits consistently for over four decades, working principally with the same three varieties of maguey: Madrecuixe, Bicuixe, and Espadín. Though the maestro will often distill single-agave productions, he usually combines different varietals to produce an ensamble, like the one we’re excited to share with you this spring. The different agave are roasted, macerated, fermented, and distilled together — true ensambles are never composed of cold blends of finished spirits. Producing an ensamble is one of the oldest methods of agave distillation. Working with the perfectly ripe agave of any number of species, this traditional approach to crop management and distilling helps sustain a healthy supply of maguey and produces a complex and flavorful spirit. For this approximately 800-liter batch, Ranulfo harvested a mix of fully mature Madrecuixe, Bicuixe, and Espadín agaves from the lands that neighbor his ranch in El Sauz, Miahuatlán. Unlike the palenqueros of Lachigüizo and most other villages in the region, Ranulfo continues to use a refrescadera with his copper pot still. Distilling with a refrescadera, a stainless-steel cylinder which is placed around the cap of the still and filled with cold water, can yield a high proof spirit in a single distillation. Doing it well, however, demands a well-learned palate and significant experience. As the fermented agave liquid boils in the pot below, the vapors rise and, with the help of the co