Bruno Paillard "Dosage Zero" Brut Nature Champagne

This is the first new cuvée to be introduced by Alice Paillard, who took over management of the house from her father in 2017. Like the Première Cuvée, it is a blend from 30 crus, this one including one-third Pinot Meunier from the right bank of the Marne Valley, the balance equal parts chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the north-facing slopes of the Montagne de Reims. This is a fascinating wine, the most vinous of Paillard’s current releases, offering quiet scents of fresh pear, dried caramel and honeycomb without any hint of sweetness. While Champagne without dosage can sometimes be aggressive in its textures or flavors, this one is delicate. The wine’s stamina seems to grow out of its rich flavor depth, extending into a luscious texture and compelling persistence.