Only 3,000 bottles of the 2003 Hermitage l’Essentiel were produced from the most concentrated, port-like, atypical, but extraordinary barrels. A remarkable black/purple color to the rim is accompanied by a wine of tremendous unctuosity, surprising minerality and definition, prodigious concentration and glycerin, and high alcohol (15.6%) for Hermitage. Representing the essence of wine, it should drink well in 3-4 years, and last for three decades or more. Once all the baby fat falls away, it should be regarded as classic, although nothing like this has ever emerged from Hermitage in any vigneron’s lifetime. (RP)