Penfolds "Grandfather-Fine Old Tawny" Port South Australia

Copper-tinged brown. Hallucinatory aromas of baked and candied apple, vanilla-poached pear, toffee, sultana raisin, singed orange peel, chestnut honey, marzipan, dried fig, dates, fruitcake and Cinnabon. Rich and fat on the palate, but remarkably shapely, showing a tangy note of blood orange to lift the supersweet, thick flavors of brown butter, caramel, cappuccino, vanilla sugar and Frangelico. The long, sappy, almost sticky finish is lifted by bright, tangy acids and an insinuating note of five-spice powder. (JR)