Although I have tasted the 2007 Vin de Constance on several occasions, this was the first time professionally. It has an explosive bouquet that sprints out of the blocks with a more effervescent, vivacious personality than the 2008. Citrus lemon, Seville orange marmalade, touches of mandarin and a dash of spice all vie for attention. The aromatics are more Sauternes-like than the 2008. The palate is very well-balanced with a viscous opening, a keen thread of acidity and a bewitching sense of poise and focus. This is probably the finest Vin de Constance to date as it fans out marvellously on the multi-layered finish. This is a startling, world-class wine that gives Yquem a run for its money. (NM)