The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, the famous monopole of the domaine that ostensibly forms Guillaume d’Angerville’s back garden, unequivocally possesses the most complex bouquet this year with mineral-drenched black fruit, briary, cinnamon, cold Alpine stream, strawberry pastilles and orange zest. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. This is very pure and focused, a fine backbone here but there is enormous length as it fans out. There is something noble about this wine... or should I say, ducal? (NM)

Bright, deep red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the young 2017, offering aromas of cherry, blueberry, menthol and licorice and an impression of medicinal reserve. A juicy, spicy, impeccably balanced midweight with outstanding clarity and cut and an enticing touch of sweetness leavened by spiciness. Plenty of tannin/acid spine here to frame and carry the fruit through a long, rising, floral finish. This tightly wound beauty shows the sappy quality of the vintage's better examples and should be long-lived. (ST)

The 2016 Clos des Ducs displays a superb nose of raw cocoa, plum, wild red berries, black cherry and roast coffee, with savoury suggestions of the roast squab to come. On the palate the wine is supple, fine-grained and fullish, with lovely stony tension, bright fruit and concentration. This doesn’t have the power of the Champans, but its elegance and quiet depth win it the title of king of the cellar. (WK)