The 2015 Chablis la Sereine comes from 20-year-old vines and spent 12 months on the fine lees in stainless steel. It has a tightly wound, smoky bouquet,with just a slight reduction that works well. The palate is well balanced with (again) a touch of reduction on the entry, which seems to creep up and smother the tension as the wine aerates. La Chablisienne is the major cooperative in Chablis. That fact alone might put some people off their wines. It should not. The quality here is miles better than it was just a decade ago and while the entry level wines at village cru level appear to be compromised by the warmth of the growing season, once you broach the premier cru and grand crus, you might be surprised by the quality. All of these wines were tasted blind with the BIVB. The most successful crus are the Côte de Léchet, Montée de Tonnerre, Les Preuses and the Château Grenouilles. La Chablisienne might not have the cachet of producers like Raveneau or Dauvissat; however, as an introduction to Chablis and as an introduction to some of its finest vineyards, this is a good place to start. So, well done to winemaker Vincent Bartement.(NM)