Given the wine’s enormous ripeness and significant botrytis, the wonder is not that the Humbrechts considered labeling their 2005 Gewurztraminer Rangen Clos Saint-Urban as “Vendange Tardive,” but that they decided against it. At 14.7% alcohol and 47 grams of residual sugar, this is one big wine, whatever else you call it. But, as in all of the most exciting instances of vintage 2005 here, high acidity and extract keep it from being either alcoholically top-heavy or overbearingly sweet. Aromas of salted, air-dried beef, oriental spices, litchi, celery root, rose petal and quince jelly lead to a correspondingly complex palate impression of powerful richness, oily texture, and a striking, forceful finish in which toasted almond and vanilla join the more typical cast of Gewurztraminer flavor characteristics adumbrated in the nose. This will be fascinating to follow over at least a 10-12 year period, although future finesse or elegance would contradict its nature. (DS)

A golden-hued version, smelling of honey and tasting of golden raisin, lychee and eastern spices. This is concentrated, with more of a dried fruit element. Has fine balance and length. (BS)