Scents of red and black currant, musk melon, orange, pear, and herbal essences in the nose of Donnhoff's 2007 Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spatlese coalesce on the palate into an intense and almost electric core. A hint of caramel points to botrytis as does the spiciness that chimes in on a kaleidoscopic, high-definition finish. it's easy to see why Donnhoff relegates this site to the group whose talents lie in residually sweet rather than dry Riesling. And it's hard to imagine that with its wealth of acidity and extract and sense of sheer energy this will not remain exciting for a quarter century. I could have picked out an Auslese, but I didn't, remarks Donnhoff by way of at least in part explaining the amazing quality and sheer concentration on display here. (DS)