Floral rose and raspberry scents on the nose. Supple and agile, this is bright and tangy, with the focus on the acidity and the purity and precision of the fruit which is crystalline and takes the lead. Tannins are barely there but you still feel as if there is structure on show, so it's not light but not weighty. Streamlined but with energy that pushes the flavours from start to finish. It's a very pretty, graceful wine and you can't fault the delicate, refined presentation where they really haven't gone too far in any one way. Stylish and so easy to enjoy with herbal and salty markers on the finish. Firm and focussed but extremely charming nonetheless. (GH)

Noticeably younger than many in its tannic structure and fruit concentration, this has a ton of lift and a ton of slate-filled tannic grip. A stately St Esèphe, entirely in keeping with the character of this wine, lovers of classical, balalanced, concentrated Montrose will want to get hold of this - and it is just about ready to begin drinking, although zero risk of it tipping too far into tertiary over the next decade. It has delivered every time I've tasted it, and really shows itself well in a lineup against other 2014s. Harvest September 22 to October 16. Hervé Berland director.

Incredible aromas of currants, blackberries, slate and flowers. Full-bodied yet so tight and beautiful with superb polish and brightness. The length is fantastic. Truly superb.