This experimental blend of seven- to 20-year-old Grande Champagne is finished for 12 to 18 months in Banyuls casks. Light copper in color, it’s bright and fruity, with flavors and aromas of fresh citrus and stone fruit, but there’s significant rancio throughout. Banyuls is all about rancio, so that it makes sense, but the palate is very unique, almost the opposite of what’s expected: the spice and rancio come up front, followed by a finish of raisins and dates. A fascinating and tasty experiment. (42.3% abv) (JW)