The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos certainly has a more expressive bouquet at the moment with citrus peel, flint and orange blossom aromas. It is beautifully defined. The palate is very well defined with tensile, almost steely tannin. It is very focused with oyster shell and a touch of lemongrass, hints of white pepper emerging towards the bravura finish that challenges Les Preuses. Ho-hum, this is yet another 2015 that rivets you to the spot courtesy of Vincent Dauvissat. "You know I am not a pessimistic person, but..." So said a beleaguered Vincent Dauvissat when we descended into his ancient cellar to taste his 2015s from barrel. Vincent has been, or rather is being hammered by the 2016 growing season with the onslaught of hail, frost, more hail and at the time of writing, intense mildew pressure as the mercury rises after a long period of rainy summer. He told me that in some areas, he has lost 95% of the crop. "It has impacted me financially. Sometimes it is difficult to sleep," he rued with the air of reflection from a winemaker who must have seen it all over many years of winemaking. And at least he has a raft of quite stupendous 2015s awaiting in barrel. (NM)