An elegant, pure and airy nose offers up notes of red cherry, pomegranate, lavender and a hint of earth. This is much more mineral-driven than any of the prior wines with its beautifully detailed medium weight flavors that also possess focused power on the saline, dusty and balanced finish that displays sneaky length. This lovely effort will need at least a decade of bottle age.

(one of the last 2014s to finish its malolactic fermentation here): Good medium red. Very ripe, slightly high-toned dark fruits on the nose. Tight and energetic in the mouth, conveying a firm mineral quality to the intense raspberry and smoke flavors. Harmonious acidity frames and extends the smoothly tannic finish. (ST)

The 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Perrières comes from 0.6 hectares of 51-year-old vines. It has a vibrant, pastille-like bouquet with ebullient black cherries intermingling with fresh strawberry and fig aromas, a little more exotic than its 2014 siblings. The palate is all about the texture: silky smooth, Vosne-Romanée like in mouthfeel with a very harmonious, feminine, seductive finish that disguises the mineralité underneath. That said, I perhaps prefer the structure of the Ronciers. Still, this is very fine... Readers will already be aware that I have long adored Bertrand and Denis Chevillon's wines and I was deeply impressed by his 2014s, even if he correctly observed that they were beginning to close up. I loved the purity and finesse that they have extracted here, perhaps better than either the 2012s and 2013s. It was a consistent bunch of Premier Crus, perhaps Les Pruliers catching my attention more than others at this early stage. Who made the best 2014s in the appellation of Nuits-Saint-Georges? I think the answer is pretty straightforward. Chevillon. (NM)