The 2009 Cuvée Constance, at eleven percent alcohol, is probably a very ripe vintage for this rare bottling as well, as it must be carrying ridiculous amounts of residual sugar to go along with its magically snappy acidity. The nose is a tropical paradise of pineapple, oranges, lemon oil, honeycomb, intense notes of acacia blossoms and a magical base of chalky minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly refined, with the cleanest, purest botrytis one can imagine, beautiful focus and balance, very racy acids and a laser-like finish that just goes on and on and on. Pure elixir, with a lightness of step that is haunting for a wine that is absolutely loaded. A great, great vintage of Cuvée Constance. (Drink between 2020-2100) 98+

*Collectibles* This stunning wine is fresh, pure and driven at first, with seamless ginger, creamed fig and glazed pear fruit, before showing its density and power via the honeycomb-, quince- and heather-filled core. Then the minerality cuts in, turning the finish back to racy despite the range of exotic fruit. A jaw-dropping display of richness balanced by precision. (JM)

At 11% alcohol and 150 grams of residual sugar, the Huet 2009 Vouvray Cuvee Constance – fourth in the past decade, incidentally – offers a striking nose of honey, white raisin, and concentrated herbal and floral essences. Salted caramel, hazelnut cream, marzipan, white raisin, liquid floral perfume, and honey are all leavened with fresh lime, white peach, and grapefruit. Like a refined cocktail of essence-of-Chenin mingled with fresh fruit juices with dashes of salt and chalk, this finishes with ravishing and invigorating persistence and should be worth following for 3 or more decades. (DS)