Goldeneye's preference in Pinot has been for meaty, mouthfilling wines that make no apologies for ripeness and richness, and the winery's latest flagship Ten Degrees release is a veritable poster child for the Goldeneye style. It is dense, big-shouldered and close to chewy in texture with fruity extract galore, and it sports plenty of tannic grip, but, far from being a one-note exercise in unbridled ripeness, it is a serious wine of great depth whose considerable achievement might not be fully evident for another five or six years. This is definitely one to lay away. *Three Stars*