The vines were five years old in 1988, the age at which the plants usually begin to show a natural balance and announce their sense of place. This is the official second year for Masseto. Pale ruby with garnet clarity in the glass, its stunning complexity is highlighted by super-intense aromas of cigar box, black truffle, straw and pipe tobacco. The attack is fleshy and mature, even if the texture of the tannins is a bit more rustic than usual. The acid carries the finish, letting the palate fill with liquorice root after savoury dried prunes and bramble fruits. Relaxing and elegant; a wine chiselled to perfection. (AF)