Vivid gold. Intensely perfumed, mineral-driven nose displays pit fruits, honeysuckle, anise, clove, vanilla bean and marzipan. On the palate, suave, perfumed lemon, peach and chalky mineral flavors put on weight with air. The mineral quality gains power with air and carries through the very long finish, which strongly echoes the anise and vanilla notes. As complex as this Champagne is right now, it appears to be built to age. (JR)

The exuberance of the year comes through in the 2002 Brut Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvee. Explosive and gloriously ripe, the 2002 walks the razors edge of power and subtlety with a level of grace that is utterly remarkable. At the same time, the style is unmistakably Vilmart. (AG)

Aromas of brioche, vanilla pod, candied peel, toasted nuts and dried fruits introduce the 2002 Brut Coeur de Cuvée, a broad, full-bodied and vinous wine with a satiny and textural attack, a deep and concentrated core, ripe acids and a gently wood-inflected finish. Fully mature and wide open, now is a great time to open bottles. Robust and muscular, I suspect the more recent vintages will prove longer-lived than this 2002 seems likely to do. (WK)