Named after the village celebrations for which mezcal was originally produced, El Jolgorio Mezcal presents a study in agave species with nine different bottlings. Each one is made from wild-harvested varieties by Zapotec distillers, with the names of the villages, makers, agave types and age inscribed on each bottle. The Mexicano, made by Valentín Cortéz, is wonderfully herbal, almost oregano-like, with mineral notes and a light, plummy sweetness. The Arroqueño is made from an enormous variety of agave, blended to yield a magnificently fruity and herbal spirit, the flavors ranging from cantaloupe and mint to cinnamon and black pepper. Even the company’s entry-level mezcal, Nuestra Soledad, made from farm-grown espadín agave, is complex, with tamarind, chervil and citrus sweetness. Certainly worth serving at any village celebration.