The 2014 les Clos from Vincent Dauvissat is an equally magical young wine. The deep, pure and very complex nose offers up a blend of apple, lemon, pear, flinty minerality, a bit of smokiness, orange zest, a touch of hay and an esthery topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bdoied and bottomless, with electric acidity, gorgeous fruit, stunningly complex transparency and great focus and grip on the very long, very mineral and snappy finish. Another absolutely stunning wine in the making. Drink between 2023-2060.

Bright, pale yellow. Compelling high-pitched aromas of grapefruit and liquid minerals. Conveys a virtually solid impression of extract in the mouth, with its sexy sweetness more than buffered by saline crushed-rock minerality, lemon, grapefruit, white flowers, vanilla, white pepper and soft spices. With its extraordinarily fine-grained texture, complex soil tones and palate-staining finish, this essence of minerality is one of my early candidates for wine of the vintage in 2014. Although it should enjoy a long and glorious evolution in bottle, it's not particularly austere today. (ST) 97+

t would be all but impossible to mistake this for something other than Chablis as the pungent aromas of oyster shell, iodine and ocean shore elements immediately announce its origins. There is superb intensity to the powerful and concentrated flavors that display so much minerality that the palate impression is akin to licking rocks. Yet for all of the intensity and power this remains impeccably well-balanced on the hugely long and saline-infused finale. In sum, this is a stunner of a Les Clos that I have had the chance to try several times recently and it may even surpass my already lofty expectations.