Magnificent in its complexity and pure breeding, the 2002 Extra Brut Celebris has it all. The Extra Brut style confers the signature Gosset drive, while extended time on the lees has given the wine just enough texture and body to fill out nicely. In the meantime, the aromas and flavors have mellowed into those that are typical of Champagne entering the first plateau of its maturity. The 2002 is vinous, fleshy and super-expressive, yet retains striking freshness throughout. Candied lemon peel, apricot jam, honey, mint, spices and sage form a compelling fabric of flavors and textures in a knock-out Champagne that is peaking today. The 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir from vineyards in Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzy, Chouilly and Cramant. (AG)