The 2013 Volnay Champans is one of the highlights in this range. Sweet, perfumed and supple, the 2013 offers gorgeous balance and tons of pedigree. Hard candy, rose petals, spices and new leather are some of the nuances that linger on a finish marked by a distinct sense of sucrosité (sweetness).

Reduction. Here there is more size, weight and power to the detailed and more subtly mineral-driven flavors that also possess a lovely texture on the dusty, palate coating and linear finish. This is impressively long and well-balanced though at present not quite as complex.

Bright, dark red. Musky aromas of raspberry, tobacco smoke and wild herbs. Lush and large-scaled, showing an almost exotic sweetness and a lot of baby fat in the early going. As much red fruits as black and more harmonious and approachable in the early going than the more minerally Taillepieds. Hints of brown spices and dark chocolate add another dimension. But the wine's strong acidity will need time to harmonize with its tannins. The estate will be in no hurry to bottle the 2013s, noted Duvivier.