Under the ownership of Jacky Lorenzetti, president of one of France’s top rugby clubs, this estate is now performing impressively. The wine is finely structured with dark tannins and tight acidity and a hint of minerality. It is Merlot-dominated, although it is the 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that brings out the black-currant fruitiness. (RV)

The Château Lilian-Ladouys 2014 is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot cropped at 44hl/ha. Aged in 30% new oak from several cooperages, it veers towards fleshy red berry fruit on the nose with hints of dried herbs and sous-bois lending personality, something to talk about. The palate is medium-bodied with tobacco infused black fruit, masculine in style with good backbone and impressive precision on the finish. This Saint Estèpe cru has seen a rapid improvement in recent years and this is another fine wine to add to their roster. I expect the bottle sample to land at the upper end of the band and continue the upswing in fortunes since its acquisition by Jacky Lorenzetti.

Juicy, with good briary energy to the core of crushed plum and black currant fruit. Bay and tobacco notes fill in on the finish, adding range, though the fruit holds the upper hand easily. (JM)