What’s more, the price-quality rapport here is excellent by any Champagne standards, and puts that of many a prestige cuvee to shame. Moet’s 2003 Brut Rose Dom Perignon exhibits both richness and robustness reflecting its torrid vintage, yet manages to stint neither on primary juiciness nor transparency to nuance; nor does it come off as at all heavy. Lightly cooked ripe strawberry and fig infused with rose hip, licorice, Ceylon tea, heliotrope and leather inform a delightfully forward nose and lush, effusively fruity palate. A tart and seedy edge to the strawberry serves for invigoration; and lobster shell reduction serves for mouthwatering salinity and somehow downright sweet animal savor. There is a hint of tannin, but it is fine-grained and suggestive of structural support. A long, seductively rich finish manages to harbor not just the immediately aforementioned virtues, but also a sense of transparency to floral and tea-like nuances and to virtually shimmering stoniness. This alluring and distinctive beauty should be worth following for at least the next half dozen years. (DS)

After all these years, the 2003 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to be expressive. In this tasting, the 2003 is distinguished by its vertical build and a real sense of gravitas. The natural power of the year - once quite hidden - now comes through loud and clear. (AG)

In a year as warm and punishing as 2003, it was vital to get the reds right. The vineyards in question are planted at high densities and the husbandry isolates expectation. Paradoxically, there are higher yields in the grand cru sites. Less surprisingly, the precision required of the sugar levels is vital. The 2003 is appropriately rich, with a nose of black forest gâteau, morello cherry and even a whiff of eau-de-vie. It's all power, life-assuring and decadent. The finish is somewhat four-square, adamantine, proud and forthright. (SF)