If not especially outgoing to start and, in fact, taking a bit of time to evolve in the nose, this impressive young Pinot nevertheless smacks of seriousness from the first. It is concentrated and still fairly reserved with the tighter aspects of a wine not quite ready for prime time, but all of its many parts are seamlessly fit, and its finish is remarkably long and sustained. Its careful construction and depth ensure great things to come, but time in the bottle is an absolute must, and pouring it before its fifth or sixth birthday would be a shame. *Two Stars*

A gorgeous entry-level wine, DuMOL's 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) is laced with sweet red berries, rose petals, mint and cinnamon. The flavors are bright, focused and lifted throughout. The 2012 doesn't quite have the exuberance of most Russian River Pinots, and will therefore appeal to readers who appreciate a more restrained style of Russian River Pinot. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at DuMol this year. Winemaker Andy Smith is no longer at Larkmead and is now solely focused on DuMol, which can only be a good thing for these wines. Many of the 2012s, the Pinots in particular, were even better from bottle than they were from barrel last year. The 2012 Pinots spent more time in barrel than normal, and for the most part benefited from the longer elevage. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2013 Pinots as they were bottled earlier than normal, just before my visit. DuMol and Andy Smith fans can look forward to two Cabernets starting with the 2014 vintage; the first is from the Montecillo vineyard in Sonoma, while the second is likely to be a blend from two top Napa Valley sites. DuMol occupies a pretty solid position in the middle of the stylistic spectrum, which is one of the reasons they are so delicious. In my view, these wines have never been better. (AG)

A tight, seductive style, with subtle jazzy oak notes woven into the ripe plum and blueberry flavors. The tannins close in on the finish. (JL)