The 2009 Pommard Les Rugiens (from Rugiens-Hauts) comes across as a touch airy but super-refined. Silky tannins support an energetic core of fruit through to the pointed, focused finish. The 2009 is impressive for its drive and insistence. (AG)

Bright, deep red. Full-blown, rather sauvage aromas of raspberry, chocolate, mocha, iron and underbrush ("reminds me of the 2010 Bonnes-Mares," says Boillot), but fresh for all its ripeness. Lush, shockingly ripe and deep on the palate, conveying a powerful impression of Rugiens soil allied with the fleshiness of the vintage. A distinctly soil-driven 2009, yet quite different in style from the rounder 2010. Finishes with powerful, dusty, mounting tannins that call for at least several years of bottle aging. 93+ (ST)