Another wine new this year chez Donnhoff, its label depicting a stone tower and with the words 2006 Riesling Spatlese Felsenturmchen on the back, reflects one microclimatically distinct portion of the Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg. Smoke-, and black tea-tinged cassis, black raspberry, and blueberry in the nose lead to an envelopingly silken-textured, luscious, succulent, palate loaded with ripe berries and refreshing lime. Hints of smoke, crushed stone, pepper, and black tea add interest to the long, creamy finish. For all of its opulence, this has delicacy, refinement, and riveting minerality, and it actually achieved a very slightly lower must weight than the “regular” Felsenberg. “I almost had a bad conscience bottling this,” quips Donnhoff, “but the old comrades – Brucke and Hermannshohle – need to face up to the challenge!” (DS)