Focusing on old vines, the 2011 Chardonnay Old Guard is Chablis-like with it green-tinged color, searing oyster shell-like minerality, citrus blossom and lime aromas and flavors. It, too, is laser-focused on the palate and needs another year or two to unwind. Incredibly impressive, few wines show this level of tension and energy. These awesome wines are made by Matt Dees and the Jonata team and are named after the idea that the wines are farmed to “The Hilt.” Sourced from Sanford & Benedict, Solomon Hills and Bien Nacido vineyards, they were some of the most impressive efforts I was able to taste during my time spent in Santa Barbara County. (JD)