Noticeably more evolved than the 2016, taking on some air-dried meat aromas. The characteristic smokiness of Hermitage is starting to make itself more apparent now, with cigar wrapper, bonfire ash and fireworks swirling from the glass. Dense and intense on the palate, with driving, powerful, mouthcoating tannins. This still needs time to temper the tannic force, and will take on more complexity, so hands off until 2030 - if you can wait that long! From 45 to 90-year-old vines across lieux-dits Les Roucoules, Le Méal, Les Greffieux, Les Bessards and Varogne. Aged in French oak barrels, 20% new. (MW)

It should be fascinating to compare the potentially legendary 2010 Hermitage La Chapelle with the prodigious 2009 La Chapelle over the next 30-40 years. About 20% new oak was used, and, as were previous vintages, the 2010 was aged 15 months prior to bottling. This black/purple-colored beauty is revealing more weight and richness than it did last year from barrel, along with great precision, stunning minerality and enormous quantities of blackberry, cassis, beef blood and smoked game intertwined with hints of graphite and acacia flowers. With good acidity and richness as well as abundant, but ripe, well-integrated tannin, this great wine equals the titan produced in 2009. Forget it for 7-10 years and drink it over the following 30-50 years. (RP) 96+

Inky, glass-staining ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes dark fruit liqueur, smoky Indian spices, potpourri and cracked pepper. Deep but lively, offering palate-coating blueberry and cherry-cola flavors and a sexy note of candied violet. This wine opens up dramatically with a little air and shows a very suave blend of power and finesse. An energizing mineral note comes on strong on the endless finish, which features sexy floral and spicecake nuances. (JR)