One of the standout values of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage, I didn’t expect to see any more of this vintage of Lilian Ladouys in meaningful quantity ever again. That’s why I snapped this up the moment I found it earlier this year. For many, 2009 was a benchmark for the estate—an intersection of a brilliant Northern Médoc vintage and an estate hitting its stride, resulting in a scintillating, delicious, and undeniable wine. I wasn’t patient enough to let the case I bought En Primeur last through the following decade, but every bottle showed tremendous potential, and it’s a joy to revisit it at this stage. The aromatics are bountiful, with deep cassis, blackberry, graphite, and thyme. The palate is pure and expressive, built around a core of red cherry, terrific texture, and well‑judged tannins. Beautifully evolved yet still packed with fruit, it’s a charming wine that will cruise through the next ten years, but is as irresistible now as it has ever been. I don’t know if these are the last bottles around, but I’ll cherish them as if they are—and I’m thrilled to share this brilliant St‑Estèphe at fifteen years on.