This plump, lively version exhibits a mouthwatering edge to the enticing pineapple, green melon, pear and yellow apple fruit, which all bounce through the salted butter-tinged finish. Drink now through 2013.

(40% each of grenache blanc and roussanne and 10% each of clairette and bourboulenc): Light gold. Fresh pear, pineapple and nectarine aromas are complicated by notes of honey and lemon zest. Spicy and precise on entry, then more plump in the middle, showing an array of orchard and pit fruit flavors. Fresh and tight on the spicy, lemony finish. I like this wine's blend of richness and vivacity.

Attractive, fresh, confident, honeysuckle nose. Real presence in the mouth. Glowing vitality. A wine with a real beginning, middle and end. Still slightly astringent but very juicy indeed. A hint of spice on the finish.