My jaw almost dropped when I learned the story of the new Charles Heidsieck from Cecile Bonnefond, the CEO of both Charles and Piper. Instead of the normal package change / price increase rationalized by “increased international demand” this wine had been improved at great cost to the producer before the price went up! The new package contains a selection of half the vineyard sites of the old one, and older reserve wines. The result is non-vintage Champagne that is better than most big house vintage wines and a stronger value now at the current price than the old Charles was at $34.99. In the years since the change, this bottling has gone from strength to strength as the average age of the reserve wines inside has increased. When we poured this at a recent in-store tasting on “House Style” it was one of the stars of the night. This Champagne has depth, combining maturity and freshness, nutty intrigue and minerality!

Layered and heady, this Brut Champagne is composed mostly of reserve wines dating back to the 1990s, yet still shows a crisp core of minerality, with a satisfyingly long finish. There's even that coveted hint of brioche character. The value here is really incredible, especially considering Charles Heidsieck's smaller operation, storied history, legendary caves, and quality.

In a lineup with 12 other Grand Marques, Champagne Charlie was at the top of my list of favorites. The Brut Reserve uses up to 20-year-old reserve wines for 40% of its blend and combines the flavors of fresh stone fruit and pears with quince and dried apricots for a rich, but ultimately refreshing and vibrant profile.