Even better is the 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Like its older sibling, it exhibits an inky/blue/purple color followed by an attractive bouquet of creosote, tar, creme de cassis, incense, and flowers, but no evidence of oak. This full-bodied, beautifully layered, stunningly pure, long effort is one of the most compelling Cabernet Sauvignons I have tasted from South Australia. It can compete with the best of Napa Valley or Washington State in terms of New World Cabernet Sauvignons. (RP) 96+