The 1998 Shiraz Admiral's Reserve is essentially a 125-case batch selected in the cellar from all the barrels of Shiraz. The wine has an opaque purple color and a sweet nose of blackberry liqueur intermixed with road tar, new saddle leather, pepper, and spice. Full-bodied, rich, structured, and backward, this impressive, large-scaled wine admirably marries a degree of finesse with the boldly flavored, big style favored by Australians. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2016. (RP)